Bieber Peever in Barcelona

Believe Tour

Even The Bieb can´t belieb what bedlam it was.

 

Mo is peeved, but this time I´m not alone. There were thousands of us peeved parents still queuing outside the vast Palau Sant Jordi in Barcelona on Saturday night as the first of Justin Bieber´s two teloneros (support acts) was onstage entertaining what must have amounted to a couple of hundred spectators afflicted with Bieber Fever.

On our tickets for Bieber we were informed that the doors would open at 17.30.  At 19.00, having stood in one of two massive queues in the cold for over an hour and still 100 yards from the entrance, the second telonera, em, Barley Hay Stetson (?) of Call Me Maybe fame was already on the stage, playing to a half-full arena.

Carly Rae Jepsen

See me, maybe?

 

I was seriously beginning to worry we wouldn´t get inside by the time Justin Bieber, the absolute idol of my 13 year old Malassie and the reason for our trip to Barcelona to the tune of some €500, appeared on stage, even late, as he is often reputed to be.

Paradoxically, this seemed an even greater worry when the “organizers” decided to move things along. A policeman with a megaphone started ordering all those over 14 years of age just to “go in.”

The result was a stampede.  The lines broke form and thousands of people, most of them screaming fourteenies-and-over, ran for the entrances. The esplanade of tall columns of lights became a free for all and the recent tragedy, in which five girls were crushed to death at the Madrid Arena due to a lack of organization and security, came to mind.

The same policeman announced that parents of children under 14, the under-fourteenies, were to continue to wait in line to – and I´m not joking – sign an authorization!

What?

We parents of the young Beliebers, only present because at the time of purchase it had been stipulated that under fourteens had to be accompanied by an adult, also with a purchased ticket, were now expected to wait in line while Harley Day Heston (?) went through her act.

But we did.  People complained, myself included, stung once again by how painfully, inefficiently bureacratic even the simplest of endeavours – taking your daughter to a concert – is in this country.

As for authorization, I was Malassie´s in-the-flesh authorization! Or did these Barcelona bureaucrats or promoters fondly Belieb that the likes of myself was attending this concert because I wanted to see and hear a 19 year-old Canadian heart throb use barely literate lyrics like, “Baby, baby, baby, oh, I´m like, baby, baby, baby, oh?

I´m a veteran of rock concerts and wouldn´t be seen dead at such a preppy, pretty, perfunctory, poppy affair by choice, but even us ageing rock chicks love our daughters and want to make their dreams come true.  So there I was – and well aware why my presence was required.

When I was younger, I sneaked into Celtic Park free to see The Who, paid the Glasgow Apollo security staff a quid to get into a Queen gig, had to give up front row seats for Kiss or be crushed by a pressing avalanche of Kiss Army adepts and feared the Apollo´s bouncing balcony would cede under the weight and headbanging of Status Quo fans. Blue Oyster Cult, Black Sabbath, Nazareth, Rainbow, Bowie, Bon Jovi, Motorhead, Rush, UFO, Boston –  in the seventies I went to what I could afford and it wasn´t half of what my guitarist brother went to.

I learned what claustrophobia meant at rock concerts.

I get security.

But this wasn´t it.

We continued to wait. Then the woman in front of me and her two daughters slipped through an askew barrier and made for the melée of fourteenies-and-over pushing to get in.  In one beat I grabbed my daughter´s hand and we did the same.

“If anybody asks you, say you´re fourteen, I told her,” as we jostled under the nose of the harrassed doorperson trying to check backpacks  [why would you need a backpack at a concert?] and bags and tickets and DNIs at the same time.  I waved the tickets under his nose and we ran through.

It was chaos inside the stadium, with girls running shrieking down huge flights of stairs, people queuing up for drinks and hot dogs [what is it with the Spaniards that they have to load up with food at a concert?] and the sound of Kaley Jay Crepton (?) deafening our attempts at hearing the directions of the steward to our seats.

By the time we finally sat down, Sally Née Getsome -  MUM!  HER FRICKIN´ NAME IS CARLY RAE JEPSEN! - was starting her biggest hit. We half-listened to it as we decoated and rewatered and she soon left the stage, probably as peeved as we were and wondering what the hell Freddie Mercury had seen in Barcelona.

The Palau, at half-past seven, when the main attraction was supposed to appear, was about half-full.

Unbeliebable.

Fortunately Justin Bieber didn´t appear until everybody was finally inside. If you´re interested (and over 14) I´ll give you my concert review this week. Meanwhile, have a laugh at this parody of Call Me Maybe by, em, well, you know ….

 

 

Monsters Together

dos-monstruos-juntos-9788408103899The myriad corruption scandals hitting the headlines recently remind me of a Spanish novel I read a few months ago by outré TV presenter, social chronicler and showman, Boris Izaguirre.

Dos monstruos juntos (2011)  is the cautionary tale of two privileged, Spanish “beautiful people,” Alfredo and Patricia, bent on achieving even greater social and monetary success, whatever it takes.

They move from New York to set up restaurants and clubs in London and quickly become the fashionable people to hang out with.

Yet their ascent involves laundering dirty money and dealing with corrupt individuals, which ultimately changes their relationship. Izaguirre draws the characters of the “two monsters together” with great skill and uses his own celebrity status to provide an insider view – and condemnation –  of the monstrous goings-on in the hedonistic Spain of recent years.

If you can read Spanish, read this enjoyable and well-researched novel to understand the process of moral corruption so prevalent here today.



Dos monstruos juntos (Kindle Edition)

By (author) Boris Izaguirre

Release date September 13, 2011.

Word of the Week – chapuza

 

ARSA

Can Pay, Won´t Pay

I just got a call from the police.  No, my violent political past (one No Blood for Oil demonstration last century) hasn´t caught up with me.  It´s my occasional inability to understand what´s going on in a Spanish phone call that had me talking to somebody from ARSA (Spanish for “arse”?  Actually, it´s the Asociación de Radioaficionados Santo Angel del Cuerpo Nacional de Policía, an association of policemen who are ham radio enthusiasts).

It seems I´m in debt with ARSA to a bottom line of some €242 for an advert in their magazine.

How did that happen?

Go on, you all know already.

A chapuza, that´s what.  A botch, a mess, a piece of crap.  Hardly a candidate for the Word of the Week, since you can´t be in Spain for five minutes without learning it, but …

No Gato por Liebre (No Pig in a Poke)

About a month ago, someone from the police called me about our little translation service, Alba Language Services.  It was all very bleeding heart and I nearly wept into my wine glass: ”We´ve heard great things about your work and we want to help you grow, so we´re going to advertise you in our magazine …”.

Fast forward to una nada, hardly anything, of €200 plus VAT and somebody would call me for payment. ¡Clic!

What? At some point in the conversation I did agree that they could send me a copy of the magazine, just to check it out.  I didn´t want it, having no intention of placing an advert in it, but I was Being Nice to the Big Policeman and anxious to get off the phone.  (It was after seven o´clock in the evening and I was trying to wind up my working day).

We have always put an advert in another publication. I meet yearly with the person responsible and she updates it, make sure it´s correctly spelled and tells me exactly how much it´s going to cost. This delightful woman buys me coffee, gives me free pens and explains about the interactive online version and only then does she issue me an invoice, payable after I receive a copy of the publication and make sure it´s all shipshape.

None of this happened with shitshape ARSA.  So when a large envelope marked Policía arrived, complete with a bill for the aforementioned amount, I ignored it and didn´t even look at the magazine.

No Dosh for Dross

Well, I should have, as it would have helped me fend off the policeman who called this morning for his two hundred and forty two smackaroonies.

“There is no way out of this, Náuren”, he told me.  (¿Náuren?). ”The advert has been published and you´ll have to pay,  even if there´s an error  - we´ll  fix it for free.”

So I finally checked out the full-colour advert with its British and American flags.  It´s for:

ALBA LENGUAGE SERVICES

¡No pasarán!

¡Me cago en la leche!  Thankfully, I told my policeman caller this morning that I had absolutely no intention whatsoever of paying this bill, fraccionado (in instalments) or otherwise.

What I should do is call him up and demand redress for the harm this piece of shit will do to our translation business. Would you trust a language professional who can´t even spell “language”? (Or even lenguaje). Would you trust a police force that can´t copy correctly the name of a business from one of the leading directories in Madrid?

 

Mario CondeMy next post might well be from Alcala´s spanking new jail  because I´m adamant I´m not coughing up. (Surely they won´t send me to the maximum-security Alcalá-Meco penitentiary alongside the likes of the sinister, thieving,  Mario Conde?  Oh no, I forgot, he´s out and going into politics. He´ll surely do well).

And by the way, there´s nothing wrong with my phone Spanish – when the person on the other end of the line, law enforcer or not, isn´t trying to estafarme.  (Cheat me).

The Day Pigs Flew

Confused bird

Is it a pig?

Rain, rain ….

Two weekends ago, despite the rain, we made a quick trip to Extremadura. While this might not be the first tourist port of call that comes to mind when one tires, as one does, of Mediterranean cruises, Moorish paradises, Asturian folklore and Barcelona´s Barri Gotic, this neglected part of Spain has to be next on the list.

 

Tierra de Conquistadores

Holed up against the drizzle at the Villa Xahariz  in Jaráiz de la Vera (Cáceres), we were already aware that Extremadura is the “Land of the Conquerors.”

Two of the most famous conquistadores, Francisco Pizarro and Hernán Cortés, hailed from there before sailing forth for South America with God, gold and glory on their minds – mostly gold, if the truth be known.

We saw nothing to remind us of these two sons of the Empire, apart from the odd weird shop name (Peluquería Moctezuma, no less) but as we nipped in and out between showers we did get to visit the stunning Monastery of Yuste where the Holy Roman Emperor, Carlos V, spent his last, gout-ridden, months.

I can barely imagine a more depressing haunt in which to face one´s maker; dark drapes, austere furniture and religious relics everywhere. And not only that, what would be the Emperor´s very deathbed faced a specially-hewn vent in the bedroom wall to allow him to see Mass from his bed.  ¡Extremadamente duro!

So in this post I want to focus on  another, more luring draw from the supposedly “very tough” Extremadura which we found to be almost exotically, South Americanny green, probably thanks to those plant-picking conquerors again.

Peninsular Pigs

Pata negra pig

It is a pig, surely?

 

I´m talking about the herds of black, free-range, acorn-snaffling pigs native to the Iberian Peninsula believed to have been brought by the Phoenicians from the Eastern Mediterranean where the pigs may have interbred with wild boars.

As opposed to the so-called cerdo blanco which is bred intensively,  stabled and fed fodder, the pata negra, or “black hoof,” moves about freely, burning more calories than its pink cousins.  The fat of these leaner, almost hairless pigs stays deep in the muscle, giving it a unique taste and texture.

While it´s the pata negra ham that is best known, the whole pig is enjoyed, right down to the blood, face and trotters!  Not for nothing do the Spaniards have the saying, del cerdo hasta los andares –  from the pig, eat right down to the trot!

Carlos V litter

Is it a cot?

 

(I wonder if the old pata negra himself,  Carlos V, in his specially- designed carry-cot-cum-pram-cum-wheelchair found some cheer in his last days in plentiful supplies of serrano ham.

Or maybe tucking into it his whole life caused the gout in the first place. Note To Self: don´t bother finding out).

 

 

 

Bird-Brained Brit

Anyway, it was unsurprising that pigs turned up on the dinner menu at our hotel. Yet as I was checking out the Pluma Ibérica Rellena de Jamón Ibérico y Foie Y Reducción de Higos Pasos al PX not only did I think it referred to some kind of poultry (pluma, feather) but I had to have the PX explained too.

Well, there was no poultry for bird-brained me.  Apparently PX stands for Pedro Ximénez sweet sherry and the whole thing was a special cut of Iberian pork stuffed with Iberian ham and foie with a sweet, fig sauce.

Well, I was up for that, but I do think that the names of pork cuts in Spanish are very strange. I´d had secreto de cerdo before but nobody, perhaps on purpose, told me what the secret was!

Indeed, in some cheapo restaurants the secret seemed to be that it wasn´t the secreto cut at all but some tough imitation.

Pluma ibérica cut

 

The pluma, in fact, which I´ve seen translated as the featherloin, is the frontal, cranial, triangular part of the loin.

And it is rather feather-shaped.

It´s not very thick and weighs about 200 grams and only two are found on each pig.  (I, happily, had both).

Because of the quantity of fat marbled through it, the pluma is only for the plancha and indeed this seems to be relevant for the secreto mentioned above too.

My pluma, served with a long scribble of the Reducción de Higos Pasos, was delicious, juicy, light, tender and tasty.

So the next time you´re faced with pluma on your plate, remember that it´s not poultry but pork.

Winged Pig

Is it a bird?

 

Of Wasps and Women

Angry wasp

This summer I´m having a problem with wasps.  No, not the White Anglo-Saxon Protestant variety, like Todd Akin, but the insect variety.

(Come to think of it, the Republican´s  ”knowledge” of the membranes and crevices of the female anatomy might actually render him part of the venomous hymenoptera insect class and as such, eminently exterminable).

Anyway, talking of crevices,  some roof-height ones on our terraza have been colonised by these black-and-yellow-striped waspie beasties.

At first I believed in live and let live.  But after their numbers climbed to a few dozen and I was stung sitting indoors on my own sofa, I decided to fight fire with fire, or more accurately, poison with poison.  (That sting stung! I felt a painful whiplash of venom shoot through my arm and down my side. I´m not allergic to wasp stings, but I don´t know if Malassie is.  So I decided to act).

My first actions were completely useless.  I puffed a bit of fly spray around but the wasps just  dive-bombed away, blowing loud raspberries at me as I choked on the vile chemicals.  I threw a bit of ant powder around but ended up walking it through the house myself.  More mopping.

Spanish hubby, referring to las avispas as  ”ellas”, which I thought was a bit sexist, said the cracks  had to be filled in at night when they were all in sleeping in their wee beds. Well, I wouldn´t have it.  Being “emparedadas” or shut up behind walls, is positively medieval and the miniscule skeletons would remain in our family cupboard, as it were, for millenia.

Meanwhile we can´t sit outside.  Hubby has become the night time laughing stock of the barrio by setting up his laptop at the dingy end of the terraza on an old, butcher-block table I keep fusty plants on before consigning them to the bin.

No wasps there – obviously they have their cool value. Unlike Hubby.

So, finally, and since I´m the family decision-maker in all things, I say to Hubby, “Do It”.   And he does.  While the waspies are sleeping (or on Waspbook and Buzzer or getting a degree on La Waspidad a Distancia) he fills in the front and back entrances to their chalet with plaster.

¡Avispadas!

That night I was in mourning.  Hemingway was here, death was all around and the bells tolled for all of us. Next morning, the place was all abuzz again. The bastards had tunnelled out and were holding a victory Buzz-In around our heads!

So, more plaster …. and more tunnelling! I decided to get some summer exercise in with some step aerobics on a small ladder and a bit of zumba with some Hipercor junk mail.  Up, two, three, ¡zumba!, down (quickly) and jump inside from the Gathering Swarm.

I got quite good at this, not quite Seven in One Blow – more like One in Seventy Blows – but I gifted free eolic energy to the barrio during some very hot weather.

Unfortunately, I broke my favourite planter, battered my boj to bits and almost knocked Malassie unconscious.  My pal Ana suggested I use smoke.  (Just what I need, to burn the house down).

No.  It was time for the big guns.  Silicone.  I can´t get it off my shower-base so wee beasties can´t tunnel their way through it.  And yes, it worked.

For about five minutes. The little bitches set up a petition on Avispaaz and a bunch of wingdignadas showed up, okupied another crack and the whole thing started again.

No wonder Spaniards use the word avispado to mean smart!

Meanwhile, I need bigger guns.

Maybe I should join the Republican Party.

Rajoy´s Little Girl?

 

As a blogger, I have a policy of not blogging about blogging itself.  Since SpainStruck´s my blog, however, I´ve decided to suspend that policy for one post.

The Facebook group, Writers and Bloggers About Spaina talented and bloody-minded bunch that brighten up my day, is essentially made up of entrepreneurs.

I´ve always been prejudiced against entrepreneurs. The reasons for this are complex and long-winded and go back to the 12th Century so I´m not going to expand on this now.  The WABAS group have unwittingly and successfully challenged that prejudice of mine …. though I was already on such a learning curve myself, since living in Spain has forced me to re-examine the  outmoded and ineffectual patterns of thought that used to dominate my intellectual inheritance.

I want to illustrate what I mean via an anecdote.

Picture it.  A working-class barrio in Alcalá de Henares. A chat outside the butcher´s with an admired neighbour.  He´s about my age, funny, smart and cheeky.  He always takes the piss out of me and is as much of a natural rebel as myself.  We get on.

Yet what he had to say shocked me.  After the initial, and by now, obligatory exchange of improperios concerning the economic crisis, he mentioned that he´d been taking his daughter around to echar currículos (leave copies of her CV) in every kind of organization and business in the hope of finding her a job.

I admired his dedication to his daughter …. till I realised what he meant.  He´s not driving her places and waiting in the car.  She´s got her own car.  No, my neighbour is leading his 25 year-old daughter into the above-mentioned places and haranguing employees and funcionarios (admin staff) into letting her leave her CV.

“She´s so shy,” he said.  ”She´s really capable, she´s got great marks, but she can´t push herself forward.”

If I was an employer, would I give her a job?

No way.

Silly girlIn what world is it acceptable for a 25 year old girl to trail mutely behind her Daddy on a job search?   It´s plainly ridiculous, yet this father chatted on as though this approach to his daughter´s future was perfectly normal.  Couldn´t he see that any employer would wonder what initiative, what gumption, that girl  could possibly have herself?

 

Apparently not.

I realised I´d found the famous niña de Rajoy.  During his electoral campaign the inept politician and now President of the Spanish Government, Mariano Rajoy, employed the  slushy reclamo of a little girl on which to project a future in which all young people would be successful in conservative Spain.

This  ”feminization” of the bright, Spanish future was a “right on” electioneering trick in the fight to win votes,  an attempt to soften the macho ibérico image of the Partido Popular.  It didn´t work – but it did subtly associate the female with the sentimental, equating it with vulnerability.

My neighbour appears to have fallen into a vat of slushy, paternalistic protectionism and is rendering his daughter powerless.

The Facebook  WASAB group often argue for an entrepreneurial education for children.  Having listened to my neighbour and seen too, how initiative and originality are often marked down in the Spanish educational system, I see that the dependence of labour on the State is often counterproductive, especially when that State is veering further and further towards fascism and engineered unemployment.

So, one of the alternatives is clearly entrepreneurship.  By this I mean start up something yourself,  use the new technologies,  be creative, sell your knowledge, build something, create a space of economic freedom where there was none.

It´s not perfect.  It´s still part and parcel of a rabid capitalist system that´s gone nuts.  But it´s one of the ways in which Spanish youth can become empowered.

I do see that given her circumstances and education my niña de Rajoy neighbour isn´t really to blame for her passivity but I wonder what will happen if she doesn´t get a job – which is more than likely.

Will she seek alternative approaches to employment and stand up on her own two feet as a grown woman?

I hope so.

Lidia Valentín Pérez - not a little girl!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Word of the Week – descolgado

Teléfono rojo descolgadoYes, yes, I know that descolgado isn´t exactly a major lexical revelation to most people who have been learning Spanish for a while.  We´ve all left the phone off the hook – or we did when phones had hooks.

No, my Word of the Week and the one I´ll be monkey-wrenching into conversations for at least seven days is an “old” word in what, for me, is a new context.

Picture it.   I´m at the pool in my faded, nine-year old, fushcia, fuchia, fuck ….. pink bikini.  (Actually, don´t picture it.  Only Wes Craven is fully-qualified for that).

 

Oh no! Not Mo at the pool!

Oh no! Not Mo at the pool!

 

Anyway,  I was having an intimate chat by the pool with one of my favourite neighbours.  We´ve lived up the same “close” for ten years but I don´t know her name and she doesn´t know what country I´m from.

¡Qué grande está tu hija!, the affable lady exclaimed, as she always does when she coincides with Malassie who at this point was sitting on the grass.  The last time they coincided Malassie had let me put a sticky-out dress on her.

A while back.

Mija, drawing daggers at the two, dithery old fogies perusing her, one of them her Mum, is on the edge of that very Spanish phenomenon, the pandilla.

 

Panditas

Panditas

 

You´ll know by now that, contrary to appearances, this term has nothing to do with young, Asian bears but is a group of noisy, rude, gesticulating, cursing, acting-like-I´m-Justin Bieber/Shakira, twelve year old boys and girls flirting unashamedly in a public place.

Since talking about one´s kids is the número uno topic for women here,  I launched into an explanation as to why Malassie was perched prettily and rather primly on the outside edge of the towel-strewn, ten-strong pandilla settlement.

Well, she´s got a couple of good pals at school but they don´t seem to want to come to the pool orthehouseordoanythingandsoI´mtryingtogethertomakenewfriends…..

Bloody hell!  So difficult to explain that Malassie´s school pals are unavailable, for reasons unknown, over the summer so she needs new ones.

But my neighbour, older, wiser, nicer and rather more (totally) Spanish than me said,

“Se ha quedado descolgada.”

SHE´S BEEN LEFT HANGING!

She has, she has (barely stifled sob)!  That´s exactly what´s happened.  Thank you, native speaker!

But by now Malassie´s edging her way into the pandilla, not an easy endeavour for a shy girl.  Fortunately, there´s a nice girl who´s amazed that Malassie´s bilingual and a hot boy ……

….. so, she won´t be descolgada for long.

Colgado por ti

And now I really have to start worrying about her being colgada ….

In love!

That truly IS horrific!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sargadelos – the Soul of the North

My latest piece, the lapwing

Sensational Sargadelos

I´m just back from Asturias and, as always when I go there, I bought a piece of Sargadelos pottery to add to my modest collection. (See photo above).

Sarga…what? you might be asking. While the muted pastels of Lladró are world famous, the stronger colours and rather tortuous forms of the Galician Sargadelos aren´t well known, even by Spaniards. Yet beer and cider are often served out of Sargadelos pumps in northern bars and many couples in Galicia and Asturias are given a Sargadelos dinnerset as a wedding present.

I prefer this crazy porcelain to its namby pamby Valencian rival because of its more contemporary look and its chequered history.

The Marquis of Sargadelos

Marqués de Sargadelos

The story begins with Antonio Raymundo Ibáñez, Marquis of Sargadelos, born in Asturias in 1749 to a noble, but moneyless, family.

Educated in the Humanities, he began his career as an administrator for a powerful trading family, soon  following them into the import and export business.

In 1804 he added a porcelain factory to his vast industrial complex, taking advantage of the excellent caolin found in the Sargadelos area.

At the time, the north-west corner of Spain was a microcosm of the social forces clashing in the peninsula as a whole.  The power of the Catholic Church and the landowning nobility was being challenged by entrepreneurs and industrialists bent on modernising Spain and becoming very rich in the process.

Some historians focus on Ibáñez as a capitalist tyrant, enriching himself at the expense of the common people and their lands.  Others defend him as a product of the Enlightenment and a firm believer in liberty, equality and fraternity, working to develop the region and alleviate poverty.

Whatever he was, the Marquis of Sargadelos came to a violent end. During the invasion of the French,  he was accused of siding with them as an afrancesado and was beaten to death by enraged townspeople.

Cobalt blue and white

The porcelain factory survived the demise of Ibáñez. In 1845 it passed into other hands and took on its signature cobalt blue and white colour scheme.

It was given new impetus in in 1963 when the painter Luís Seoane acquired  the famous factory with a view, not only to marketing the pottery, but creating Galician cultural centres.

 

To this day, the tension between these two aims – one commercial and the other cultural –   exists in the Sargadelos company. The shops, known as galleries, sell the pottery but they also have bookshops specialising in Galician and Portuguese literature as well as open spaces for book presentations, recitals, conferences and debates.

Could do better

Perhaps because of this tension, and though Sargadelos can be bought in a number of galleries, it is not as readily available as other Spanish ceramics.  It is not for sale on the company website and in many shops most pieces can only be bought by special order. (I´ll collect my lapwing when I go back up to Oviedo in August).  I like to buy my small pieces in a shop in Oviedo since that was where I first discovered it but it bothers me that the figures are hard to get.

Having said this, it may not be possible for shops to stock every piece since the output of figures has been vast, ranging from the wild and domestic fauna of Galicia, to artisan trades from the recent past, to historical, literary and folk figures. Its catalogue has been described as:

“ … extensive in terms of shapes, motifs, reliefs and exclusive colours, and includes crockery sets, ornamental figures and even original designer jewellery… this company takes traditional forms and shapes, and engenders in them its own unique artistic vision to create exclusive pieces.”

My collection

All Sargadelos pieces are named in gallego. In my modest collection, which so far only has items in muted colours, there is a cow (vaca), a figure of Santiago in his boat made of stone, a dove (pomba), a “hole-in-the-hand folk symbol (furaman), a shell (buguina), an ashtray (see above), a toothpick holder (not shown), a wolf (lobo) and now the soon-to-be-collected lapwing (avefría), which reminds me of the Scottish peewit.

 

Sargadelos cow

Vaca

Santiago

Santiago

Pomba

Hole in the hand

Furaman

Buguina

Buguina

Lobo

Lobo

 

I used to think that people who collected things were akin to trainspotters but now that I have the Sargadelos bug I enjoy placing all my trinkets around my house.

Sargadelos isn´t particularly cheap, so my collection is growing very slowly – the latest, tiny lapwing figure costs €16 – but I´m already thinking about my next acquisition.

What will it be?

Do you collect anything Spanish?

If so let me know, one anorak to another!

 

 

Excellent Expats 1 – Deborah Fletcher

 

Here in Spain there are expats – and then there´s Deborah Fletcher! 

Already a successful accountant in England with a string of high-end careers behind her, she and her husband, fireman John, decided to move to Spain.

So what, you might say.  Thousands of people do that every year.

Ah, but not like Debbie Fletcher.  That whole boozy, lazy, fun in the sun around the villa pool, All Day British Breakfast and grey, permed hair syndrome wasn´t for her.  She and John bought a piece of land in Murcia and built a stunning home on it, but they didn´t stop there. In fact John doesn´t stop long at all, dividing his time between saving lives in England and helping his superwife in Spain!

An inveterate animal lover, as well as a natural entrepreneur, Debbie now has her own Luxury Dog Kennel business and is working on the creation of a beading business, should she ever finds herself in the [unlikely] predicament of twiddling her thumbs.

Actually, that should perhaps be “thumb,”  because the incombustible Debbie  - in a previous life surely the leader of the weapon-wielding Amazons – has suffered all sorts of injuries in her six years of hard, physical graft in Spain and recently damaged her thumb.

Not that that will stop her, of course.  Being severely bitten and scarred in the leg by a spider a few years ago only led to the writing of her wonderful book, Bitten by Spain

Given that there´s a big chunk of Spain between Murcia and Madrid, I didn´t really expect to have the pleasure of meeting Debbie.  Then she and John had a party to inaugurate the kennels and invited “everybody” on Facebook. 

Fast-forward to one escocesa, one asturiano husband and one small española daughter waiting for Debbie to lead them through the wilds of Bullas to her craggy domain.  She jumped out of her car to greet us, jumped in again and remained in perpetual motion until we left our Murcia weekend behind – and she´s probably jumping as I write. 

Well, we were bowled over, me in particular, since I´d read her book and everything seemed familiar to me, such are Debbie´s powers of expression. I wanted the tour – meet the handsome, friendly but Spanish-challenged John, pet the enormous dog Marcos, the sweet husky Qivi, put our finger into the deep, round scar left on Debbie´s leg by the Spanish spider, say “´ello” to Cookie the cockatoo.  

And gawp in utter amazement at the beauty of Debbie´s home on a bluff looking down into a valley, crowned by their “magic mountain,” a sort of promontory to which they must surely pray for bureacratic expeditiousness from their terraza on full moons, sipping full-bodied Murcian wine. 

With her qualifications in interior design, Debbie designed and decorated the house, full of picture windows, gorgeous rustic furniture (that turned out to be made of mango wood) and perfectly complemented strong and neutral colours.

The inauguration was a great success as everyone, including us, was blown away by the gorgeous kennels waiting to provide the discerning dog with everything it could want – mosaic bath, private run area, underfloor heating and, of course, Debbie´s care and concern.

The joy didn´t stop with the party. Despite their responsibilities, Debbie and John held a wonderful Thai dinner party for us along with some lovely English folk who live nearby (Debbie caters Thai Banquets professionally as part of her plan never to sit down) and Malassie and I were invited to choose a piece of jewellery from the many Debbie has made in her beading classes. Not only that, but I was presented with a copy of the re-issued Bitten by Spain.

Quite frankly, Deborah and John Fletcher are among the most generous, industrious and lovely people we´ve ever met and Spain´s very lucky to have them.

So go knock on their door.  They´ll only be converting the second outhouse, keeping chickens and parrots, running their businesses, taking time out (John) to drag people from blazing buildings, planting their vegetables, holding banquets, blogging and writing books.

Sitting about really, so why not turn up and give them something to do!

Deborah´s Blog 

SpainStuff

I like this video  by Aleix Saló (previously posted) for many reasons. Firstly, because of its casual and sarcastic tone – very socarrón.   I´m also quite taken by the map figure of Spain … though it reminds me a little of the odious Spongebob Squarepants.

I like how Saló plays with the ideas of progress (associated with English) and backwardness (associated with Spanish), as well as the suffix “stan,” signifying underdevelopment, though people from countries such as Afghanistan might take offence and probably quite rightly.

However, the focus is firmly on Spain, the country associated with the big, savage, macho toro, except that now the raging bull has been replaced by cows, and not the fattened ones, but vacas flacas in this crisis of biblical proportions.

The argument is quite simple – or at least Saló makes it so for economic illiterates like myself.  After a fantastic, macho party (un festón padre) in which the Aznar government sold off rustic (not to mention “protected”) land for urbanization, creating a property boom, Spain´s now got a huge, economic hangover, since as night follows day, the bust has shown up.

Why?

Debt.  As Antonio has kindly clarified in the post´s comments section,  la tía de la lejía, the Bleach Lady, who comes from the future to help harassed housewives get the stains out of their whites, came to the rescue of grubby Spain, in the form of Debt (or Dettol?) to wash away the sins of the Dictadura, blanquear (launder) ill-gotten gains and elevate the humble, muddy Spanish shepherd to shiny Lamborghini of God status.

Who wouldn´t want that?

But debt is a have now, pay later phenomenon, theft from the future.  And the future is now here.  So the usual suspects, namely, the self-preserving banks, their ruling class allies and their hangers-on, who never lose, are clawing back as much money as they can.  (Wankia, with The Rat jumping off the sinking ship, is a prime example).

 

Shouldn´t that be the middle finger?

Shouldn´t that be the middle finger?

 

Meanwhile, kids who rushed out of school right into the construction industry are now undereducated, unemployed, losing their homes and still in debt. Their role model was Francisco Hernando, a.k.a. Paco el Pocero, who worked himself up from extreme poverty as a sewer worker or pocero (from pozo, well or pit) to become one of the richest entrepreneurs in Spain thanks to el ladrillo, construction, in the process described in Salo´s video.

Francisco Hernando

While I have sympathy for any impoverished person who creates a better life for him or herself, the traditional business culture in Spain, all too often based on dodgy practices, means that this illiterate and possibly well-intentioned “Robin Hood” was, in fact, a crook exemplifying a model of progress that´s out of step with one based on innovation, meritocracy and sustainability.

That´s me out then, I guess…

 

The macho pelotazo model, best described as the achievement of an aim by slapping it into submission with a big pairs of balls, evidently is no solution to anything. When Spanish governments realise that running the country con un par de cojones is, in fact ruining the country, Spain might be a fit place to prosper in.

Saló´s video also highlights one of the supposed Seven Deadly Sins of Spain, la envidia.  I hadn´t noticed this being much different from anywhere else but many people have commented on it to me and it is, of course, debatable.

 

In any case,

“Hágale morir de envidia a su cuñado y cómprese un adosado,”

we hear.   Have your brother-in-law die of jealousy and buy yourself a semi-detached,” or chalé, as opposed to the cramped little flat that most people can afford.  All risk-free, too, because if you can´t keep up the payments, sell it, make a profit and get tax breaks since the price of property never falls.

No need for the government to invest the profits in I+D+I, Investigación y Desarrollo e Innovación (Research and Development) since the pelotazo model seems to be working just fine.

Well, the value  of property fell, leaving people not only in negative equity but unable to pay the letra, or cuota, mortgage payment, even if they were still employed on a crap salary, a sueldo de mierda.  For these Spaniards still in a job – after all, somebody has to keep the country running, even the elite knows that – their rights are now being slashed virtually to 19th C. levels.

So this is actually a very depressing video – except for the language!  And the most fun phrase used in it is the quite disgusting a tomar por culo. 17 years in a Spanish department failed to expose me to this phrase.  Straight off the plane in ´97, however, I heard it all around me.

What the hell did it mean? And how the hell to use it right?

el tomarse de culo, tomar de culo, tomarse por el culo….?

No, it´s much simpler than that.  It´s not a reflexive verb requiring the use of the participle se.  It has no need of the definite article, el, though the full and unnecessary version of the phrase uses it, plus  the verb ir, to go, as in véte a tomar por el culo.

Literally, this is an invitation to take something up the backside, to put it nicely. Translated it means to “stuff”, in the sense of “Stuff Rodrigo Rato.”

But we don´t need all that grammatical palaver to use it.  All you need is a tomar por culo plus a subject, plus a lot of exclamation marks.

Stuff him

No further stuffing required

For example:

¡A tomar por culo las ardillas! Stuff squirrels!

¡A tomar por culo Risto Mejide! Stuff Risto Mejide!*

¡A tomar por culo SpainStruck! Stuff SpainStruck! (Noooooooooo!!!)

Having said this, if, like me, you often take a scunner to certain phrases, you can substitute saco for culo.  While I can´t quite get a visual on a tomar por saco, I´d probably prefer to use it.

Well, I´ve struggled with this blog post for a while now and have decided to give up on it.  It´s just going to peter out now …..no more handy phrases,  no advice, no pithy comments, no conclusion, nothing, nada, except to say that *Risto Mejide is the detested Simon Cowell-type figure on the Spanish version of Britain´s Got Talent called Tú sí que vales.

That´s it.

Stuff this blog post.

¡A tomar por culo esta entrada!